Cruise Norway: Order of the Blue Nose

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As we sailed north from Bergen to Alta up the Norwegian Inside Passage we crossed the Arctic Circle.

The Arctic Circle is a major circle of latitude at approximately 66°34’N
that marks the southernmost limit where the sun does not set on the summer solstice or rise on the winter solstice.

The “Order of the Blue Nose” is a naval tradition awarded to sailors who cross the Arctic Circle  (66°34’N), entering the realm of “Boreas Rex,” King of the North. It is a rite of passage involving initiation ceremonies, often including painting noses blue, to boost morale and foster camaraderie.

Order of the Blue Nose

Our Cruise Director, Philip Morgaman, gave us some background:  “Good afternoon Ladies & Gentlemen and welcome! We have entered through the Arctic Circle, and it is time to make our journey official by welcoming you to the Order of the Blue Nose!”

We sailed into the Arctic Circle (noted on the map with a dotted line).

First, a little history: The word “arctic” comes from the Greek word arktikos: “near the Bear, northern” The name refers to the constellation Ursa Major, the “Great Bear”, which is prominent in the northern sky.  The region north of the Circle, known as the “Arctic” covers roughly 4% of the Earth’s surface.

That’s ice on the top of my head — brrrr.

Then the Captain said, “Hear ye… hear ye…. Whereas by official consension, our most honorable and well-beloved Guests have completed successful passage through the Arctic Domain.

A ladle of ice is preferable to swimming through an icy pool which is what I thought the test would be.

Those of us who were game had a ladle of ice poured over our heads for which we were marked with a dab of blue icing on our noses.

I was dubbed an official Bluenose.

Finally we were rewarded with a shot of Aquavit to take the chill off.

Blue nose and aquavit signifying our trip across the Arctic Circle.

“This is to certify that you all have been formally and officially initiated into the Solemn Mysteries of the Ancient Order of the Chilly Deep, and should wear your blue noses proudly! With the order of myself, the Captain, I command all subjects to Honor and Respect those onboard Viking Neptune as one of our Trusty Blue Nose family.”

Charlie and I both received personalized certificates indicating our special participation.

We officially welcome you to the Blue Nose Order! Skol!

Jo

Kitchen Countertop Choices

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I’ve been planning on a new kitchen since last fall.

The new layout of the kitchen.

I’m taking a different direction on my kitchen countertops than I thought I might.

The stainless steel coffee bar in my former kitchen was one of my favorite features.

Originally I was thinking of having the sink counter stainless steel like the coffee bar in our former kitchen.

I found 3 samples that would go with all the elements — tile, cabinets, backsplash.

Instead I decided to use one counter throughout the kitchen — quartz.  Quartz countertops are engineered stone surfaces composed primarily of crushed quartz, one of the hardest minerals on Earth.  It’s expensive but hardy.

The finishes are pale blue (Upward), cream (Sandhill Crane), and a nameless deeper blue with accents of champagne bronze.

I carried my cabinet, floor, and backsplash color samples to 3 different stores to try and get a good match and a reasonable deal.

I wanted a subtle, clean quartz — nothing too dark or that looked like crumbs.

The first 2 stores had similar samples but none had exactly the same.  I found something I liked in each store but the sample in first store I visited was about $1,500 less expensive.

Calacatta Safyra

Finally I went to look at the samples where I bought the cabinets. The countertop I ultimately chose, Calacatta Safyra, was even $1200 less so I put down a deposit. The price for countertops includes the company sending their own employee to measure up, make a template, provide the countertop, and install it.

A bird’s eye view of the new layout.

The kitchen cabinets and appliances need to be in place before the measuring begins.  I eager to get started.

Jo

Cruise Norway: Northern Lights

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While Charlie and I had seen the northern lights in Iceland we were excited to see them again.

The lights are unpredictable.

And we weren’t disappointed.

The first night aboard ship was spectacular.

The aurora danced through the night sky on multiple nights.

The city in the distance gives an idea of just how vast the aurora can be.

At one point I stopped taking pictures and videos and just watched the ever-changing array of colors in the sky.

Moments later the above scene changed to this.

It is difficult to choose which photos to feature as they are all significant in different ways.

Jo

Cruise Norway: Organ Concert

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After spending the morning in Tromsø looking through some stores Charlie and I returned to the ship for lunch and dinner.

A special, surprise dessert was served to us at dinner while the entire restaurant room sang “Happy Birthday, dear Charlie”.

Since it was Charlie’s birthday I had arranged for a Viking privileged access evening organ concert in Tromsø’s most celebrated venue, the starkly beautiful Arctic Cathedral.

The triangular cathedral was even visible from the bus in the middle of the bridge.

A small group of us boarded a bus around 8 p.m. to cross Tromsø Bridge from Tromsø island to Tromsdalen, the part of the city built on the mainland.

Approaching the cathedral from the front.

Anchoring the skyline  is the Arctic Cathedral, an architectural masterpiece from the 1960s. During long winter nights, lights emanate from the enormous cathedral windows, which appear to emulate the aurora borealis.

The stained glass window is not very visible on the inside of the cathedral at night; outside it was glowing.

The cathedral’s simple, elegant interior is dominated by an exquisite stained glass window depicting the return of Christ.

The organist sat at the bright spot in the center of the photo.

After an introduction of the program by the organist, Thorsten Ahlrichs,  we enjoyed a recital of classical masterpieces spanning various eras, featuring renowned composers. The organ is at the rear of the sanctuary so we faced the front window while the organist faced away from us toward the back.

The stained glass of Tromso cathedral (in daylight) depicts the second coming of Christ.

Afterward, we had time to admire the cathedral which we would see in daylight on our tour the next morning.

Looking back across bridge from the ship a hint of aurora is visible above the church.

We returned to the ship after this birthday concert.

Jo

Cruise Norway: Tromsø

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We cruised south from Alta to arrive at Tromsø, Norway — “Gateway to the Arctic” —  where we would again berth overnight.

City of Tromsø overlooking Prostneset Dock.

Charlie and I had no planned excursions until later that evening so we walked into town which was near Prostneset Dock where we were moored.

Two trolls hanging out on the street.

The city  (the largest in northern Norway) seemed committed to its troll population with a museum and a number of statues throughout town.  We never actually saw a living troll unless you count the one in the above photo.

Reindeer in Norway are managed by the indigenous Sámi people.

While I  bought a couple more pairs of merino wool socks Charlie took time to talk to a reindeer.

A special, surprise dessert was served to us while the entire restaurant room sang “Happy Birthday, dear Charlie”.

We headed back to the ship and had Charlie’s birthday dinner in the restaurant onboard before our special evening outing across the bridge fromTromsø.

The Tromsø Bridge (Tromsøbrua) connects the island city of Tromsøya to the mainland suburb of Tromsdalen. (The crew performed safety drills.)

The next day we took an included excursion by bus to view the unique structures and natural beauty of Tromsø amid its stunning island setting and winter landscapes.  Tromsø boasts the largest concentration of wooden houses in northern Norway, built here until 1904 at which point wood construction was banned for fear of fire.

The stained glass mosaic of Tromsø cathedral depicts “The Return of Christ”.

Throughout the city, you will see classic architecture mingling with modern buildings, including the stunning Arctic Cathedral.

The planetarium at the Science Center.

Our final stop was the Science Centre of Northern Norway which has a  planetarium where we watched a captivating documentary about the northern lights.  While I love planetariums I have never actually been to one where I stayed awake for the entire show.

We ate a late dinner then waited for the sky show to begin. We were not disappointed.

Back to the ship for dinner at Manfredi’s, Viking’s Italian specialty restaurant.

Note the Big Dipper just above the green swoosh.

After dinner we were notified that the aurora was active — a spectacular light show.

Jo

April, 2026: Gonna

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We have no trips planned in April so my focus will be on finishing some old projects, starting some new ones, and spending time on curb appeal features.

The loblolly pines fill the front yard with long, brown needles which need to be cleared up.

At the back of the house we have a marsh that separates the yard from the Chesapeake Bay.

When the tide comes in it often deposits driftwood and other treasures in the marsh.

Lots of odd bits of trash and wood collect in the marsh which also needs to be cleared up.

I’m hoping the peonies I planted last fall begin to emerge.

In April I plan to:

  1.  Celebrate Easter.

    I’m hoping the camellias will be blooming.

  2.   Put away last year’s tax papers and bills.
  3.   Decide on a kitchen countertop.

    These are the 3 I’m considering.

  4.   Set up temporary kitchen in laundry room.

    I have limited space to rearrange but there is a sink nearby.

  5.   Stain primary bedroom outside deck.
  6.    Power wash front pavers.

    The pavers need a little brightening up.

  7.    Begin reading The Path Between the Seas by David McCullough.

    The definitive book on the Panama Canal.

  8.    Make reservations for  high school reunion.

    Chartiers Valley HS in 1971.

  9.   Pick a word to focus on for the month. My word: DELIGHT.
  10.   Write a goal list for May, 2026.

Jo

March, 2026: Wrapped

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We’ve returned home from our travels and are enjoying the warmth of spring in Maryland, after our trip into the Arctic Circle.  Brrr.

Beautiful and icy scenery of Norway’s Inside Passage from the ship.

I wasn’t actually at home much of the month but in addition to my numbered list I was able to:

  • add some security features to the house.
  • finalize our income tax returns.
  • launder and put away all my laundry from our trip.

In March I finished the “to do” list I set forth in the beginning of the month.

  1.  Take a cruise.  Charlie and I cruised from Bergen, Norway, to London, England.

    Norway’s Inside Passage

  2.  Celebrate Charlie’s birthday.  We celebrated on our cruise by attending a private organ concert at the Arctic Cathedral in Tromso, Norway.

    The organist sat at the bright spot in the center of the photo.

    Charlie loves organ music. He also plays.

  3.   Dog sled in Norway. (#19)  So much fun.

    The sled was fast and exciting.

  4.   Have afternoon tea.  Tea was served everyday on board the Viking Neptune.  Charlie and I partook at least three afternoons.

    Everything was delish but I rarely have an appetite for the scones.

  5.   Catch some theatre in London. (#17)  Charlie and I were in London 3 days and took in 4 stage shows in the West End.  Fabulous!

    Don’t worry. We were invited to take this photo.

  6.   Celebrate Saint Patrick’s Day in an Irish pub.  We had lunch at The Porterhouse in London with an Irish band playing traditional music along with popular classics.

    The delicious Irish stew at the pub was served in a quart bowl.

  7.   Clean the back deck.

    Mostly everything has been moved on the back deck (viewed from the primary bedroom balcony) to facilitate power washing.

  8.   Power wash primary bedroom deck.  Instead of actually power washing I cleaned with exterior house cleaner and a directional spigot on the hose.

    All the balconies need cleaning and staining — primary bedroom is first.

  9.   Pick a word to focus on for the month. My word: ENTHUSIASM.
  10.   Write a goal list for April, 2026.

Jo

Cruise Norway: Alta

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After our late night dog sledding adventure we returned to the ship which was docked overnight in Alta.

I took a photo of the intersection near where the shuttle dropped us off just in case I got turned around.

The next morning we took the provided shuttle into town. Alta was celebrating the Finnmark Dog Sled Race.

Large snow and ice sculptures fill the city center where the Finmark start/finish line was located.

I’m thinking I look a bit Norwegian since some school girls addressed me in their language (which I do NOT speak except to say “please” and “thank you”) in order to interview me about the Finnmark race.

The sculptures were monumental in scale.

And another group asked me to take their photo in the space under the dragon’s tail in the above photo .

These heavy wool socks were comfortable under my Sorel waterproof boots.

While in town I bought a pair of heavy wool socks (my souvenir for the trip).

100 krone is approximately 10 dollars.

I also stopped at a bank ATM  to get 200 Krone ($26.64 US), about 10 cents on the dollar.  We still have some left over since a reasonable tip in Norway is 50-80 NOK.

One of my favorite Mamsen’s offerings was a beef carbonnade sandwich made to order.

After about an hour we rode the shuttle back to the ship in time for lunch.

Woodcut of Sami (indigenous people of Norway) lavvus with the Northern Lights overhead by Violet Polsangi.

In the afternoon  we took an included scenic tour by motor coach of the “City of Northern Lights” with a guide.  At the Alta Museum, located in a field of rock carvings, we explored Alta’s storied history, from its archaic past to the present through its rock art and native culture.

The spiral shape of the church is inspired by the swirling, glowing Lights.

Our final stop was Alta’s Northern Lights Cathedral where we learned not only about the kirke (church) but also the Aurora Borealis.

The  crucified yet triumphant Christ figure with his face raised to the light is a “victorious” representation in gold-plated bronze, designed by Danish artist Peter Brandes.

The inside of this concrete building is austere to reflect Arctic nature and faith.

Always plenty of eating opportunities aboard ship.

Upon our return to the ship we had afternoon tea to hold us over until our late reservation for dinner at The Chef’s Table.

Jo

Cruise Norway: Dog Sledding

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My express purpose for going to Norway was to experience a dog sled ride. (#19 on my 101 in 1001) Since we had a low level stateroom which determined when I could book excursions, most of the more reasonably priced dog sled opportunities were sold out.  So I made expensive reservations for Charlie and me to enjoy a dog sled ride beneath the stars capped with an evening of fine dining at a local farm.

Norwegian Inside Passage on March 8, 2026.

Both of us dressed in warm layers topped by our waterproof pants and jackets.  While it was not raining the ride would have taken place regardless of the weather.

We were greeted by our mushers – one per sled for a total of 4 sleds. (Our musher was the darling young lady looking straight at my camera.)

We and 5 others were picked up at 5:30 p.m. (sunset was at 4:30) by a van and headed out to a forested valley by the Alta River.  Upon arrival we were offered additional clothing, gloves, and hats, which no one needed.

Charlie made friends with the dogs who were eager to engage.

We went out to the kennels to meet the dogs.

Each dog is harnessed in his/her own special configuration to guard against strain and injury.

The black dog on the right was the lead dog — everyone followed him.

Charlie helped to harness 6 dogs to the sled.

Our ride was about 35 minutes at a speed of 10-20 miles per hour.

We climbed aboard and our dog musher directed the team across the icy terrain. While the sled was not uncomfortable I would not like to spend hours on it.

From time to time we stopped along the trail for photos.

This was a truly exhilarating experience — one of the best and most unique I’ve ever had.

With the Aurora overhead and the mostly frozen Alta river beside our path, we were on a remarkable adventure.

The skies above were clear and we caught a glimpse of the Northern Lights.

Each of 5 (or 7) courses was small and beautifully presented. (The fish course.)

Upon our return to the farm we met homeowner and award-winning chef Johnny Trasti who presented a delightful evening meal prepared using locally sourced ingredients.

The table was set for 7 to commune together and share our trip thus far.

In addition to Charlie and me we dined with 5 other people from the ship.

The meat course was filet of reindeer — a specialty in northern Norway.

With dinner complete, we returned to the ship after a little snafu with the transportation.

We arrived back to the ship after 10 p.m.

The entire evening had been jolly but I especially enjoyed the dog sled ride.

Jo

Cruise Norway: Bergen

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Charlie and I spent our first overnight on board Viking’s Neptune in Bergen harbor.

The Neptune was docked in Bergen harbor to begin our cruise.

The next morning we took an included 2-hour walking tour through Bergen.

Rosenkrantz Tower

We met our guide at the pier and walked past the Bergenhus Fortress, one of Norway’s best-preserved fortifications.

The Bryygen buildings are still used as stores, inns, and restaurants.

Then we admired old picturesque (and crooked) wood buildings that face the port in an area called Bryygen (not to be confused with Bergen), a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

From behind the buildings in Bryygen the alleys are long and narrow.

The building fronts are deceptively small since they go back a long way. Historically, the iconic, narrow wooden houses of Bryggen in Bergen were designed with overhanging, narrower frontages to evade taxes that were based on the building’s surface area.

The “bossrom” is actually for trash.

Our tour guide cautioned us not to feel privileged if sent to the “bossrom” since in Norwegian that means trash room.

So many gorgeous pastries from which to choose.

After leaving the tour we stopped into a shop to purchase some postcards and a Norwegian birthday card. And naturally we visited a bakery for some coffee and goodies.

Every Norwegian pastry is so good and the coffee service is divine.

Making a decision on what to select was not easy.

Sailing northward out of Bergen Harbor.

Finally we made our way back to the ship and settled into the first part of the cruise which was 2 “sea days” on the Norwegian Inside Passage up the coast toward the Arctic Circle.

During our sail the night sky was lit by a very active Aurora.

After Bergen we cruised the Norwegian Inside Passage for 2 days until we arrived at our next port, Alta.

Jo